The End Fed is an antenna that is very simple in design and you can install it in a variety of configurations. In it's simplest form you can use a random length piece of wire, at least 1/4 wavelength of your operating frequency, and throw it up into a tree. Regardless of how you string it up, you are going to need a matchbox or UnUn.
I pulled most of my information from the following PDF. (http://www.earchi.org/92011endfedfiles/Endfed6_40.pdf) They have the best assembly instructions I could find. I would advise reviewing it if you cannot follow mine as they have better pictures.
Most of the designs I looked at used a 9:1 UnUn inside the matchbox. The toroid type varied. Some were huge and others were pretty small. I found that the T130-2 toroid seemed to be popular among other hams that were building this antenna. Supposedly this one will handle around 300 watts, so if you want to run high power, you may want to look for a T200-2.
|T130-2 Toroid Core|
The core winding is really the hardest part. After that you have to find an enclosure, connectors, and get everything soldered together. I went to the hardware store and found a marine junction box and some bolts, washers and wingnuts.
All the directions I found for making this core online were using nice color coded wire. I didn't have any laying around, so I had to be extra careful to keep track of the order the wires were in. But the principal is the same. If you are looking at the front of the core and are using colored wire, you should have a green, black, and red wire to the left side as well as the right side. Both in the same order.
|Marine Junction Box with UnUn installed|
I used crimp-on terminal lugs for the ground and aerial connections. You can go ahead and crimp and solder a lug on the right red wire for the aerial. Then add a short wire to the right green wire, crimp and solder both into a lug. This will be connected to the ground/counterpoise.
The twisted green and black wire will need to be skinned and soldered to the center connection on your SO-239 connector. Finally the right green wire lug is attached to the counterpoise and the loose wire is soldered to the ground of the SO-239.
|Matchbox with 72ft of wire|
To mount the antenna, I climbed up on the roof and screwed the box directly to the wall in the highest eve on the house. I then twisted the end of the wire around the nut on top of the box and tightened the wing nut. Luckily I have a barn just the right distance away from the house. I was able to attach it to the wall of the loft. I used a UV resistant wire tie that accepts a screw to mount it to the wall. I then ran the wire through the loop created by the wire tie and twisted it back around on itself several times. I also used a length of 12 gauge wire to run from the counterpoise lug, down the wall to a ground rod driven into the ground below the antenna.
|PVC Matchbox - Portable|
I tested this design by clamping the matchbox to the front porch railing and pulling the wire into a tree in the yard in an inverted L setup. I also used a piece of wire that was about 18 ft. long attached to the counterpoise lug and laid on the ground beneath the radiating wire. This performed nearly the same as the more permanent installation between the house and barn. (Note: I have read that if you are using at least 25 ft. of coax to feed this type of matchbox, you don't necessarily need a counterpoise wire since the coax shield will act as the counterpoise. I have tested this and it works, however you need to make sure your station is setup farther than 25 ft. away from the matchbox or you will have some RFI issues.)
|Bottom showing Counterpoise Lug and SO-239|
|Top showing Aerial Lug|